It’s a career-high performance for Pfeiffer, and one that’s achieved not just with the help of a number of brilliantly scathing one-liners and a seemingly permanently raised eyebrow, but also through a never-ending carousel of lavish fur-trimmed coats and velvet dressing gowns that perfectly reflect the hubris and faded glamour of her character. For Emmy-winning costume designer Jane Petrie—who first made her name in the 2000s with British indie standouts like Andrea Arnold’s Fish Tank and Duncan Jones’s Moon, but has more recently earned attention for big-budget costume dramas such as Netflix’s The King and the second season of The Crown—the film’s character-driven narrative was an opportunity to return to her roots.
“I’ve usually been quite good at following my instincts, but before French Exit, I came off a project that I didn’t particularly enjoy,” Petrie remembers. “And I spoke to my agent and said, ‘I really, really need my next job to be something that I’m really keen to do, that’s right up my street.’ I remember saying I’d love to do something that feels like a Jim Jarmusch film or Aki Kaurismäki or something like Harold and Maude. And then [I got] French Exit, and it was just perfect, so characterful and timeless, and it felt like it took place in its own little world.”
It’s this sense of the film existing somewhat out of time that Petrie wanted to reflect in the costuming, with Pfeiffer’s wardrobe flitting between minimalist ’90s New York City sophistication and a more retro brand of luxury steeped in cashmere, fur, and tan leather handbags. “I mean, you can’t ever make anything feel truly timeless, but I tried to look at things that I felt were fairly classic, without wanting it to feel like a period film either,” says Petrie. “It was about trying to find ways of hitting the right pitch so all of the pieces fit together.” It’s a language of subdued opulence that is reflected not just in the spirit of Pfeiffer’s character, but in the nature of the film too, which has a certain scrappy, indie energy to it despite its sumptuous trappings. French Exit is the kind of film that you are surprised is still able to get made but glad it did.
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February 16, 2021 at 01:21AM
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The Story Behind Michelle Pfeiffer’s Opulent French Exit Wardrobe - Vogue
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